T-34-85木制战斗模型制作

bazooka

  
The scale drawings for the Tyng T34-85 Tiger Killer (shown here) were used to create a complete set of engineering plans using a CAD program. See T34-85 Plan Set to view the plan drawings used to build this vehicle.




The hull is built as a single structure. It is 38" by 12 ? wide and 8" high. It is constructed out of ? 7 ply birch plywood; everything is dadoed and glued together and has turned out to be very stiff. The triangular pieces on the side are supports for the sloped side armor and mud skirts that have yet to be applied.




In the rear I have temporarially placed the drive motors. I have been saving these for just such a project. These are 24volt low speed DC traction motors I scavenged out of some old dot matrix printers. I plan on having the FASTEST tank on the battlefield!




On the top is the 11" diameter turret cutout. The turret will be a self-contained unit that will have everything but the drive system and speed controllers. There will be a custom rotary electronic interface for turret power supply and the control leads going to the speed controllers.




The front and rear axles were also scavenged out of old printers. The rear axle is solidly mounted to the chassis and the front axle, as can be seen here, will be adjustable with a tensioning mechanism I have yet to come up with. The drive and idler wheels will rotate freely on these shafts. The drive wheels will be turned by a chain and sprocket setup.




Plenty of room for batteries!


The mounting I've come up with for the road wheels consist of ? bolts for the axles bolted to 1 ? 1/8" thick aluminum angles. The angles will be bolted to the hull. I hope this system will provide a reliable and robust system with minimum parts count that could be adapted for future tanks in the hobby.




Another view of an axle mounting. The axle bolts were chucked into a drill press and polished with a Brillo pad. Steel wool would have worked fine also.




Here is one of the angles sitting on the side of the hull. The smaller holes are for bolting the angle on. The larger holes allow space for the inside axle nuts to reside. You may have noticed that the triangle shaped pieces for the side armor have been removed. These were getting in the way of this phase of construction so were knocked off.





A close-up of some holes from the outside.





A close-up view of a mounting point from the inside showing a recessed axle nut.

bazooka

Here are two of the twenty road wheels mounted on their axle. The wheels are 5 ? by 1 3/8" in size which works out great for a T34 in 1/6 scale.





Since this design I came up with doesn't allow for easy removal of individual wheels at a time. I pre-drilled these holes in each wheel hub for future oiling if required. As is without oil, the nylon hub wheels turn really well on the axles.





Here are five wheel assemblies ready to be attached to an angle.





And attached.





Here's a bottom view with both assemblies attached.





And a close-up.





Almost ready to go Tiger hunting!





The idler and drive wheels on T5 are glued up disks of plywood. Here's the jig I use to cut circles on my bandsaw.





And a closer view.





After cutting the drive and idler wheels on a band saw and boring them out on the drill press I found that the wheels weren't perfectly true. So I made up this jig to true the idler and drive wheels to their shafts. The jig holds a shaft, and thus, the wheel parallel to the saw blade. The blade is raised about an 1/8" at a time into the piece which is then rotated around 360 degrees. Keep doing this until your done. Works great!






How I clamped the wheel jig to the tablesaw.





I made rubber friction belts out of rubber bungee cords. The ends were cut at an angle (scarph joint) and glued with Goop brand cement. I used brads and more Goop to attach the rubber to the drive wheels. We'll see how well the glue holds up after a few Tiger hunts!





Here's a close-up of my drive and idler wheels. I used the nylon spacers shown on the bottom as bushings for the wheels. The idler has two bushings and I used four in the drive wheels. They seem to work well but we'll see how they hold up after a season of battling.






This is a piece of prototype track that I built a while back with an idler on top of it. My track system consists of belting (treadmill belt) with inner and outer maple track pieces. Alternating inner pieces have those teeth that keep the track on the wheels, just like on the original T34. The wood is glued to the belt and then everything is through nailed (tell the wife air nailers and a compressor make for a great Christmas gift!).






30 year old seasoned Rock Maple in the form of an old butcher block that I saved from a kitchen remodel job. I'm making my tracks out of this.






Tablesaw! Another great gift idea! If your looking for a tablesaw in the $500 range, I highly recommend the Jet brand of 10" contractor saw. Dollar for dollar you get a much better tool when compared to the Craftsman brand and it comes with a decent fence. It even comes with a sealed fan cooled motor unlike the open frame motors on Craftsman.

bazooka

T5 needs 52 toothed track pieces. You first mill out the angled splines and track pieces. After you glue and nail them together you get these neat looking items.





Step two in making the toothed pieces. A miter saw is used to separate the pieces. The blade is set to 10 degrees.





Step three. Set the table saw blade to 10 degrees and trim the other side.





A days work. 52+ toothed pieces, 156+ flat pieces.  





To figure out the length of belting I need to make my tracks I taped pieces of wood to the drive, idler, and front and back sets of bogies. These pieces represent the inner pieces of my track system.





I then wrapped some belting around the wheels and measures for length. It came out to around 83".





Once I had the correct length I drew up a template on the computer and printed it out. The template has lines showing the placement of the track pieces. Here I am test fitting it on T5.





This close-up of the template shows the end joint shape. The track pieces will be centered over the lines.






I think I've spent almost as much time building jigs for this project as I have on T5 itself! Here's the jig to assemble the tracks. It's a piece of cedar with an edge piece attached to one side to line everything up straight. Spacing lines were drawn on it, copied from the paper template. Cedar, which is soft, was used because the nails (5/8" brads) I'll be using to through nail the inner and outer track pieces will protrude all the way through and the cedar will let me pull the track off easily. The nails will be sanded off flush on a stationary belt sander.







Here's a close-up showing the use of a square block to align the outer track pieces in the jig. You can see the spacing lines. Tape, I wanted to use double sided carpet tape to hold the pieces in place but I ran out so I used wide masking tape folded over on itself. It worked OK.






Glue is spread on the pieces and the track layed on top. We'll see how the Goop holds up.





The inner pieces are now glued and nail on. In this pic you can see that I took the time to profile the track teeth so that they will hopefully engage the wheels easer. I don't know if I needed to do this, but you never know, and it would be impossible to do after the tracks are assembled.





Here I'm "peeling" the track off of the jig. The cedar let loose pretty easily.





Here I'm getting ready to attach the ends together. I hope that the nailed and glued track pieces will hold together while I'm chasing Tigers across the field!






Here you can see my custom "Track Holdup Jig" or THJ for short.





The pieces over the belt joint are clamped overnight.





First track mounted! T5 is starting to look like a tank! I placed the beginning turret pieces on for this photo op.





Here's a good as place as any to show the idler tensioner I came up with.





The track wrapping around the idler.

bazooka

And the drive wheel. Those three 1" holes serve no purpose but they sure look cool!





Here's a great shot. The track has been tensioned and it still has that center "droop" just like on the real thing. As you can see I haven't yet sanded the nails flush yet on this track.





Here's a drive wheel of the T005. It has a 33 tooth #35 plate sprocket attached to the inside face and is driven by go-kart chain. The whole assembly turns on the fixed rear axle. The "friction" for this friction drive is provided by 1/4" thick rubber strips glued and nailed to the plywood wheels. The rubber came from bungee cords.





Here's a shot of a drive assembly mounted in place. It's made up of stacked laminations of 3/4" ply. The motor swings on it's mounting piece to tension the drive belt. The belts and pulleys are 3L series (3/8" wide belt) components. The PowerTwist belt can be easily changed to different lengths while I test different pulley size configurations. In the background can be seen the two Dentronics MD03 motor controllers. In actual practice these controllers have not worked as I had hoped. They are self limiting to 20amps and this appears to be limiting T005's mobility on the first couple of test runs. I'll be upgrading to a relay based system in the near future. The controllers are mounted on a hinged piece that holds the batteries securely in place. Tiger Killer can mount two 12volt 17 amp batteries or two smaller batteries.





A shot of a drive assembly on the bench.




In this shot you can see the 9 tooth drive sprocket which protrudes outside the hull when mounted in place. The bearings used are non-precision press fit roller bearings that are used in wheelbarrow wheels and such. You can get them at mower repair places and well stocked hardware and farm supply stores for a couple of bucks apiece. You won't find them at Home Depot.
A word on my motors. They are Minertia brand servo motors that I scavenged out of some old printers several years ago. Their rated at 22.5 volts and have good torque when connected directly to a battery. Not so good when running on those MD03 controllers.





Here's a close-up of the turret base plate.





The turret mounts to the hull with three custom grooved rollers mounted on the underside of the turret. The grooves wrap around the edge of the circular cutout on the top of Tiger Killers hull. They were cut out of some 2" nylon stock by the Frank Lathe Master Pittelli. My daughter donated some old roller blades (with their bearings) for the cause.





The turret is rotated with a friction drive. The rear roller has rubber tape wrapped around it and is driven by this 24volt gear motor. So far in tests it works pretty well.





The turret drive roller is spring tensioned by this setup. As a side note, this turret mounting system I came up with gives you the ability to easily remove the turret from the tank. I can foresee using this feature to use the turret in a fixed bunker emplacement or even in another hull.






The T-34 is prepared for its initial field trial at the Tri-Pact Proving Grounds with a fully operational drive and track system.






At Home!!! The T-34 moves through the snow just like it's full-scale cousin. The treadmill belt track system has no problem getting traction in the snow, although the drive system is under-powered for the first trial. Once that problem is resolved, it's time for a winter battle.





T5 has a turret!





T5's turret cover is made out of plywood on the top and fiberglass for the sides, back, and front. A male plug was made using the plywood turret base and top plates, which defined the shape of the turret. Floral foam was sandwiched between these pieces, which was then carved and sanded to shape. The plug was then glassed with the expert assistance of Tri-Pact engineers. After the glass set the foam was removed. The turret will receive a skin coat of Bondo and then sanded smooth.





Here's a close-up of the mantlet. It was made out of a piece of cardboard shipping tube that was coated in glue. The barrel is a piece of 1" aluminum tubing.




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The turret top is designed to be easily removed for easy service of the interior. You just lift the back up and it slides forward and up out of the way.




An interior shot of the turret top. Polyester resin was used to make this assembly and polyester does not stick to plywood that well. So a bead of construction adhesive was run around the fiberglass and plywood joint to strengthen it.





A closer view of the inside-front section of the turret top.





Here's the gun pivot setup. Those side pieces not only hold the mantlet to the base plate but also defined the shape of this section of the turret when carving the foam to shape.




This is what I came up with to clamp the gun barrel securely in place.





This is the guts from a Brass Eagle Samurai paintball marker which I found at Walmart for $15. My initial plan was to build a custom framework for this assembly and use the PVC pipe and T fitting as a barrel liner, but . . .

bazooka

Will Montgomery found these bargain basement guns and with only slight modifications I think it will work fine in "Tiger Killer". With the patented "Tyng Turret Baseplate Mounting System", TTBMS for short, you can see that this marker almost fits as is without any modification.





Here's an overall view of the turret internals. On the top is my MK2 magazine. It holds 40 rounds in two rows and seems to gravity feed quite well. My MK1 magazine was a pvc pipe affair with a CO2 pressure feed. It didn't work very well. In the center can be seen the marker, 4oz CO2 bottle, and elevate servo (1/4 scale Hitec MG705 servo). The electronic assembly is an MD03 reversing speed controller that controls turret rotation. The MD03 was originally bought for the main motor drive but didn' t work out well. Works great for the rotate.





Here's a closer view of the magazine/marker interface. The tape is there so I don't have to fish balls out of the marker after this photo-op!





The outer aluminum barrel slip fits over the marker barrel. The scale detail shown here is made out of a shower curtain rod holder and the top from a spray paint can. Rustoluim Textured Gray in this case.





Here's how the faux barrel is secured to the marker barrel. A hose clamp hidden in the spray can top. There is a small hole not viewable for tightening the clamp. The notches where cut with a metal nibbler.





Here's the CMI 14" sniper barrel for this marker. The original barrel was only 7" long and not very smooth inside. CMI is one of only two manufacturers that I could find that made aftermarket barrels for this marker. The tape allows for a snug fit of the outer barrel.






So how do you get the CO2 to the marker? This is how I did it. The 4oz bottle fits into this L shaped piece, which is solidly mounted to the turret base. This piece is the bottom line adapter from a Brass Eagle Samurai marker. Generic versions of this adapter are available from paintball suppliers. The tubing attached to the brass 90-degree adapter is ordinary automotive brake line.
Note: Although it does not currently have it, the CO2 bottle will have an anti-siphon tube installed in the near future. An anti-siphon tube is a tube inside of the bottle that is bent in such a way that the end of it will be at the upper most part of the bottle when the bottle is in its mounted position. This keeps liquid CO2 from entering the marker. Anti-siphon tubes are recommended whenever a CO2 bottle is not mounted in an upright position.





The brake line continues forward in the turret and then bends downward. The spring running from lower left to upper right is counter balancing the marker. This reduces stress on the elevation servo.




The brake line attaches to an ordinary 12" grease gun hose available from any auto parts store for $4. The hose is rated for 3400PSI, well in excess of the 800PSI that the CO2 is pressurized at. The marker end of the hose has a quick disconnect. This picture clearly demonstrates a feature of the Tyng Turret System. It's removable.





Here's where the hose comes into the marker. The male side of the quick disconnect is threaded into an ASA adapter which is threaded into the marker. You need to use Teflon tape on your threaded fittings to make them gas tight. You get the quick disconnect and ASA adapter from paintball suppliers.





This is the ZAP Model 80 paintball marker as it comes out of the box. This gun is also known as the Point Zero or Winchester Sedona.




This is what mine looks like after a little weight reduction! The handle, trigger guard, part of the upper tube assembly, scope mount, and some additional metal were hack sawed off.




Here's the servo-trigger interface.




Here's a close up of the upper tube. This metal is not needed for gun operation so was removed. I would not recommend removing the metal from the lower tube the way I did. It was a pain to do and I think it will reduce the hammer O-ring life. But it does allow me to show you ...





This is the hammer in the cocked position.





Here's how to mount the trigger servo to the marker. The screws securing the aluminum plate to the marker are threaded into holes that originally had plastic retaining pins, which held the trigger/handle assembly onto the marker.





The marker elevation is handled by the cog pulley and belt shown here. The belt is trimmed in such a way so that both ends can overlap each other on the forward side of the pulley. The belt ends continue either up or down, wrapping onto the wooden block and secured with monofilament. The block is glued and screwed to the gun mount. Turn the pulley one way - the marker points up, turn the other way - it points down.





After destroying one of my motors during a "simple" bearing replacement, I had to find some new ones. I opted for some BattleBot technology and acquired two "EV Warrior" motors. The new motors are about twice the diameter of my old ones and they were a tight fit into Tiger Killers engine bay. EV Warriors have powered many a BattleBot to victory. I imagine they'll do the same in R/C Tank Combat!





EV Warriors can suck up the amps (100amps at stall). I felt that standard 30/40 VF4 series relays wouldn't be enough to feed these beasts. I found these H-Bridge 70amp relay modules on eBay. So far there working great.




Due to the design of my relay modules, the Tri-Pact diode mixer could not be used to control them. What you see here is a prototype PIC microcontroller based relay mixer provided by Joe Sommer at Anvilus Machine Works. Besides controlling the drive relays, this mixer has four additional outputs to control such things as turret rotate, elevation, and whatever you can think of.




My receiver and mixer are mounted inside the turret. To connect the mixer to the drive relays I used a cord from an old IBM AT keyboard. The keyboard cord is very flexible, has four conductors, a shielded ground, and is perfect for this application. The cable running through the keyboard cord is the 12volt feed for the turret rotate motor. The connector is a standard DB9 computer connector.




Tiger Killer demonstrating its impressive climbing ability. It made it over the step!





Here we see Tiger Killer waiting for some Tabbies (German armor) to prance on by ...




And the proud builder!




During the Maryland Massacre the T34 has no problem with the heavy brush, crashing through the tall grass and branches just like the full-scale version.

Ark

cool..

涛涛

被这个打到一定很痛的

皇皇007

晕阿 晾了老半天图片 最后沙发还是强掉了！ 这个坦克漂亮的！！

tanker

厉害

速度小星星

吗呀~~一个字也看不懂啊~本来还有兴趣