T-34-85木制战斗模型制作

bazooka

  
The scale drawings for the Tyng T34-85 Tiger Killer (shown here) were used to create a complete set of engineering plans using a CAD program. See T34-85 Plan Set to view the plan drawings used to build this vehicle.




The hull is built as a single structure. It is 38" by 12 ? wide and 8" high. It is constructed out of ? 7 ply birch plywood; everything is dadoed and glued together and has turned out to be very stiff. The triangular pieces on the side are supports for the sloped side armor and mud skirts that have yet to be applied.




In the rear I have temporarially placed the drive motors. I have been saving these for just such a project. These are 24volt low speed DC traction motors I scavenged out of some old dot matrix printers. I plan on having the FASTEST tank on the battlefield!




On the top is the 11" diameter turret cutout. The turret will be a self-contained unit that will have everything but the drive system and speed controllers. There will be a custom rotary electronic interface for turret power supply and the control leads going to the speed controllers.




The front and rear axles were also scavenged out of old printers. The rear axle is solidly mounted to the chassis and the front axle, as can be seen here, will be adjustable with a tensioning mechanism I have yet to come up with. The drive and idler wheels will rotate freely on these shafts. The drive wheels will be turned by a chain and sprocket setup.




Plenty of room for batteries!


The mounting I've come up with for the road wheels consist of ? bolts for the axles bolted to 1 ? 1/8" thick aluminum angles. The angles will be bolted to the hull. I hope this system will provide a reliable and robust system with minimum parts count that could be adapted for future tanks in the hobby.




Another view of an axle mounting. The axle bolts were chucked into a drill press and polished with a Brillo pad. Steel wool would have worked fine also.




Here is one of the angles sitting on the side of the hull. The smaller holes are for bolting the angle on. The larger holes allow space for the inside axle nuts to reside. You may have noticed that the triangle shaped pieces for the side armor have been removed. These were getting in the way of this phase of construction so were knocked off.





A close-up of some holes from the outside.





A close-up view of a mounting point from the inside showing a recessed axle nut.

jimmylee1123

  老外牛*的很多阿~~  还有全手工打造金属老爷车的~~    

mauricze

强劲的，这个T5打油漆彩弹的

枫之恋

一个字都看不懂     

速度小星星

吗呀~~一个字也看不懂啊~本来还有兴趣

tanker

厉害

皇皇007

晕阿 晾了老半天图片 最后沙发还是强掉了！ 这个坦克漂亮的！！

涛涛

被这个打到一定很痛的

Ark

cool..

bazooka

Will Montgomery found these bargain basement guns and with only slight modifications I think it will work fine in "Tiger Killer". With the patented "Tyng Turret Baseplate Mounting System", TTBMS for short, you can see that this marker almost fits as is without any modification.





Here's an overall view of the turret internals. On the top is my MK2 magazine. It holds 40 rounds in two rows and seems to gravity feed quite well. My MK1 magazine was a pvc pipe affair with a CO2 pressure feed. It didn't work very well. In the center can be seen the marker, 4oz CO2 bottle, and elevate servo (1/4 scale Hitec MG705 servo). The electronic assembly is an MD03 reversing speed controller that controls turret rotation. The MD03 was originally bought for the main motor drive but didn' t work out well. Works great for the rotate.





Here's a closer view of the magazine/marker interface. The tape is there so I don't have to fish balls out of the marker after this photo-op!





The outer aluminum barrel slip fits over the marker barrel. The scale detail shown here is made out of a shower curtain rod holder and the top from a spray paint can. Rustoluim Textured Gray in this case.





Here's how the faux barrel is secured to the marker barrel. A hose clamp hidden in the spray can top. There is a small hole not viewable for tightening the clamp. The notches where cut with a metal nibbler.





Here's the CMI 14" sniper barrel for this marker. The original barrel was only 7" long and not very smooth inside. CMI is one of only two manufacturers that I could find that made aftermarket barrels for this marker. The tape allows for a snug fit of the outer barrel.






So how do you get the CO2 to the marker? This is how I did it. The 4oz bottle fits into this L shaped piece, which is solidly mounted to the turret base. This piece is the bottom line adapter from a Brass Eagle Samurai marker. Generic versions of this adapter are available from paintball suppliers. The tubing attached to the brass 90-degree adapter is ordinary automotive brake line.
Note: Although it does not currently have it, the CO2 bottle will have an anti-siphon tube installed in the near future. An anti-siphon tube is a tube inside of the bottle that is bent in such a way that the end of it will be at the upper most part of the bottle when the bottle is in its mounted position. This keeps liquid CO2 from entering the marker. Anti-siphon tubes are recommended whenever a CO2 bottle is not mounted in an upright position.





The brake line continues forward in the turret and then bends downward. The spring running from lower left to upper right is counter balancing the marker. This reduces stress on the elevation servo.




The brake line attaches to an ordinary 12" grease gun hose available from any auto parts store for $4. The hose is rated for 3400PSI, well in excess of the 800PSI that the CO2 is pressurized at. The marker end of the hose has a quick disconnect. This picture clearly demonstrates a feature of the Tyng Turret System. It's removable.





Here's where the hose comes into the marker. The male side of the quick disconnect is threaded into an ASA adapter which is threaded into the marker. You need to use Teflon tape on your threaded fittings to make them gas tight. You get the quick disconnect and ASA adapter from paintball suppliers.





This is the ZAP Model 80 paintball marker as it comes out of the box. This gun is also known as the Point Zero or Winchester Sedona.




This is what mine looks like after a little weight reduction! The handle, trigger guard, part of the upper tube assembly, scope mount, and some additional metal were hack sawed off.




Here's the servo-trigger interface.




Here's a close up of the upper tube. This metal is not needed for gun operation so was removed. I would not recommend removing the metal from the lower tube the way I did. It was a pain to do and I think it will reduce the hammer O-ring life. But it does allow me to show you ...





This is the hammer in the cocked position.





Here's how to mount the trigger servo to the marker. The screws securing the aluminum plate to the marker are threaded into holes that originally had plastic retaining pins, which held the trigger/handle assembly onto the marker.





The marker elevation is handled by the cog pulley and belt shown here. The belt is trimmed in such a way so that both ends can overlap each other on the forward side of the pulley. The belt ends continue either up or down, wrapping onto the wooden block and secured with monofilament. The block is glued and screwed to the gun mount. Turn the pulley one way - the marker points up, turn the other way - it points down.





After destroying one of my motors during a "simple" bearing replacement, I had to find some new ones. I opted for some BattleBot technology and acquired two "EV Warrior" motors. The new motors are about twice the diameter of my old ones and they were a tight fit into Tiger Killers engine bay. EV Warriors have powered many a BattleBot to victory. I imagine they'll do the same in R/C Tank Combat!





EV Warriors can suck up the amps (100amps at stall). I felt that standard 30/40 VF4 series relays wouldn't be enough to feed these beasts. I found these H-Bridge 70amp relay modules on eBay. So far there working great.




Due to the design of my relay modules, the Tri-Pact diode mixer could not be used to control them. What you see here is a prototype PIC microcontroller based relay mixer provided by Joe Sommer at Anvilus Machine Works. Besides controlling the drive relays, this mixer has four additional outputs to control such things as turret rotate, elevation, and whatever you can think of.




My receiver and mixer are mounted inside the turret. To connect the mixer to the drive relays I used a cord from an old IBM AT keyboard. The keyboard cord is very flexible, has four conductors, a shielded ground, and is perfect for this application. The cable running through the keyboard cord is the 12volt feed for the turret rotate motor. The connector is a standard DB9 computer connector.




Tiger Killer demonstrating its impressive climbing ability. It made it over the step!





Here we see Tiger Killer waiting for some Tabbies (German armor) to prance on by ...




And the proud builder!




During the Maryland Massacre the T34 has no problem with the heavy brush, crashing through the tall grass and branches just like the full-scale version.