大家都是怎么入门的？

deathnango

问一下，F/1.8D这个“D”是什么意思，有时候还看到G，不大明白哇

swann

尼康的D型和G型镜头能给机身提供主体与相机间的距离数据 便于曝光与闪光的自动控制

至于D和G的区别。。。一直没搞清楚

deathnango

这个说法我要多多实践才能完整理解啊   

atp

G Series: 2003 (won't work on manal focus cameras)

The newest AF lenses have no aperture ring. This means that they will not work on manual focus cameras since there is no way to set the aperture. You can mount them, however every shot will be made at the smallest aperture and your metering will be way off (probably about SIX stops underexposed) since the camera has no way to know what the aperture will be.

This is silly, but you may get them to work on closed-loop auto exposure cameras like the FA in A mode. Good luck if you want to waste your time on this.

The G series work fine on all current AF Nikon cameras on which the manual aperture rings were a pain. On legacy AF cameras like the 8008 and 6006 you may lose the A and M modes, you'll have to see. I forget if for those modes if one sets the aperture on the camera or on the lens aperture rings.

All the G series are also D. They are not AI-s.

This removal of the aperture ring is typical migration for Nikon: Nikon tends to make new lenses work on all cameras for about 15-20 years after they discontinue the camera. AF cameras have not needed aperture rings for most modes since they were created about 20 years ago! Of course collectors growl about this and the brilliant new G lenses won't work at all on the brilliant FM-3a, but so what; all the other manual and AF lenses made today still work great on every camera they've made since 1977, and with a small modification to add an aperture prong will work great (with all meter coupling) even on the original Nikon F from 1959. This is good, although G lenses are still useless on manual focus cameras.

For an AF camera to control the aperture on any non-G lens with an aperture ring you just turn the aperture ring to the minimum setting in orange (usually f/22) and flick the lock so it stays there, and then everything is done on the camera body. If for some reason the lens is set otherwise the camera will flash something like " F - - " to let you know to set the lens back to the minimum setting.

atp

AF-D; "D Type," 1995

Another very subtle improvement you may safely ignore.

These lenses supposedly let the camera know the distance at which the lens is focused.

In very rare instances supposedly it helps the matrix meter, especially with flash, determine the exposure more accurately.

AF-D work the same as AF lenses, even in difficult flash situations. The only difference I could see was if I had a backilt shot with an object in the foreground. If you focus on the foregrond the image attempts to expose the flash fo rthe forgreound object, and if you focus on the background, the forground object becomes too light

The only improvement is if you want to photograph straight into mirrors. Without a D lens you'll get underexposure because the image of the flash in the mirror fools the meter into underexposure. With D lenses you'll get a properly exposed image of a bright flash. I've expended film on this foolishness so you don't have to.

I ignore this feature, so you can too. If you are buying used lenses you can get the earlier non-D versions cheaper. Don't worry here.

In fact, the instruction manual of the 105mm f/2.8D AF Micro-Nikkor cautions that the D feature of the lens can lead to the WRONG EXPOSURE unless you keep your flashes at the same distance from the subject as the film, which is a real obstacle to creativity.

There are a couple of ways to signify a "D" lens: Nikon usually marks its lenses as "50mm f/1.4D AF" as opposed to "50mm f/1.4 AF-D," but it all means the same thing.

Most AF-D lenses are AF and AI-s, and work great on manual focus cameras. You'll need to have a coupling prong added for use with the meter on ancient pre-AI cameras.

Focusing speed has nothing to do with whether or not a lens is D. Of course newer lenses are D and newer lenses tend to focus more quickly, but the focus speed is determined by the gearing between the AF coupler and the focus ring, not the D feature.

All the newest AF lenses, even AF-S are also D. Nikon doesn't bother ot mark it anymore.

swann

搔嘎

deathnango

开始进行翻译哇   

euhii

腾龙17-50/2.8 & nikon 85/1.8
比较喜欢这样的搭配，只要不嫌声音大

cam

G系列2003:(不能用于手动对焦机身)
最新的不带光圈调节环的自动对焦（AF）镜头。这意味着它不能用于手动对焦（MF）机身上，因为您无法设定光圈大小。但是您仍可以安装它（于MF机身） （注1）（，只是仅仅能使用最小的光圈并且自动测光会有偏差（注2），（也许会导致6档曝光不足）因为相机没法知道当前的光圈值。
这可真糟糕，但是您仍可以让其在“闭环”(注3）？？自动曝光相机如FA的A档（光圈优先）下工作。如果您愿意在此事上耗费时间，那么祝好运吧。
G系列镜头能在当前所有的尼康AF机身上，此时手动光圈调节环已成为“鸡肋”。早些的AF相机如8008，6006，你会无法使用A和M（手动）档。我不记得在那些机型上是在机身上设定光圈还是在镜头上。
所有的的G和D系列镜头都是不是AI-S卡口（注4)。
对尼康来说，去除光圈调节环是个痛苦的决定：尼康15-20年前希望能让新的镜头在能用于以往的机身上，但是，AF相机自20年前开发出来的时候多数情况下就不再需要光圈环了。当然，收藏者对此耿耿于怀，而且全新出品的优异G镜头无法在同样优异的FM3A相机上使用！但是如今其他的手动自动镜头自1977年以来都能很好的在每一台相机上使用，只是有一个小改动：加上了一个光圈调节拨叉，可以配合测光，这甚至可以在1959年的F系列上就能实现。这是个好消息，尽管G镜头很少用于MF机身上。
在AF机身上使用非G系列的镜头控制光圈也很简单，只需把光圈环调至最小的位置（通常用桔黄色的刻线表示，F22），然后锁定，其他的事情就交给机身啦。如果某种原因导致机身显示“F--”这样的字符，那么重新把镜头光圈调到最小就好啦。




1尼康的镜头卡口在物理结构上是一致的，所以新的镜头也可以安装在老式机身上，反之亦然。
2相机的TTL自动测光必须在镜头通光孔径大于F/5.6的时候才能工作，这好比让你带上副墨镜就没办法看清东西一样。
3closed-loop?没听说过，是指TTL，Though the lens测光么
TTL测光不管你当前的光圈时多少，镜头透进多少光线，它就以此为准计算快门速度。
4Nikon自动最大光圈传递技术(Automatic Indexing，简称AI)推出后。但首先我们要弄明白什么是“Indexing”，“Indexing”是一个照相机方面的术语，该术语是指将镜头的最大光圈值传递给测光系统以便进行正常曝光测量的过程和方法。Automatic Indexing是指当一个AI镜头被装在兼容AI技术的机身上时，该镜头的最大光圈值在机械连动拨杆的自动接合和驱动下传递给机身的测光系统，以实现全开光圈测光。这一过程在AI镜头上是通过镜头卡口上光圈环外边缘的测光连动凸棱来完成的。

deathnango

占个小板凳，好好研究下LS的